Milan Fashion Week 2026

03/20/2026

Blumarine

David Koma built this collection around the idea of the diva, but not in an overdone way. More controlled, more intentional. Glamour felt like power, something worn with purpose rather than for show. The silhouettes stayed clean and sculpted, but he layered in touches of baroque richness that added depth without overwhelming the look. The maison codes were present throughout, especially the rose, along with the butterfly and the B monogram, worked into pieces as subtle motifs rather than loud statements. There was a softness running through the collection with chiffon, garlands, ruffles, and fringes, but it never lost structure. Even the inclusion of denim helped balance it out, keeping everything grounded and wearable. The palette stayed almost entirely monochrome, moving between ecru and black, creating contrast that allowed texture and detail to fully carry each look.

Moschino

For Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza's Collezione 08 Terra felt like a personal reflection, but still grounded in the brand's playful identity. It pulled from his childhood in Argentina, weaving in references to gauchos, tango dancers, bus drivers, and even llamas without tipping into costume. There was a sense of polish throughout, but never anything too perfect, keeping that slightly undone energy consistent. Moschino's idea of wearable art showed up through exaggerated proportions and surreal details, especially in the accessories and bags layered with unexpected objects. The tailoring stayed sharp through coats and trousers in beige, brown, gray, and navy, but was broken up by flashes of yellow, turquoise, and pink that disrupted the structure just enough to keep things from feeling too controlled.

Marco Rambaldi

Marco Rambaldi's collection sat somewhere between the sacred and the undone, exposing the inner structure of garments instead of hiding it. Trousers, skirts, and jackets were deconstructed in a way that felt intentional, almost intimate, like revealing something usually kept hidden. The concept of the waltz and the embrace carried through the silhouettes, with pieces wrapping and moving around the body in a way that felt fluid but grounded. Knitwear became central, with tailoring dissolving into tracksuits, crochet, and heavier knits that felt handmade or inherited. There was a strong sense of nostalgia, almost a grandmother's wardrobe, but reworked into something sharper and more raw. The palette stayed in browns, grays, and creams, with hits of red and cobalt blue cutting through and creating moments of contrast.

Dhruv Kapoor 

Dhruv Kapoor's In between explored the feeling of existing in transit, drawing from spaces like airports, hotels, and corridors where people are not fully present. The collection focused on the subtle ways posture and movement shift in these environments, capturing that sense of being in between one place and another. Garments reflected this through raw hems, unfinished embroidery, and textures that felt worn in rather than polished. Kapoor continued to blend his Indian heritage with a contemporary edge, using materials like padded nylon, bonded leather, silk, denim, and handwoven wool to balance structure and softness. The palette remained muted with charcoal, beige, slate, and washed black, with touches of blue and occasional brighter tones that echoed the fleeting visuals of movement through transitional spaces.

MARNI

Meryll Rogge's debut at Marni introduced a softer, more playful direction while still holding onto the brand's identity. The palette leaned into pastels, layered with Marni's signature mix of patterns including gradient stripes, diagonal checks, and polka dots. These elements came together through relatively simple silhouettes, creating a balance between control and chaos. Texture played a key role, from knits to raincoat like materials and oversized sequins that added dimension to otherwise minimal pieces. Tailoring carried a nostalgic feel, with suits that felt pulled from the past, almost like something from your grandfather's closet, but reworked into something current. The collection felt expressive but not forced, maintaining that slightly off balance quality that gives Marni its distinct character.

Bottega Veneta

Louise Trotter approached this collection through contrast, layering heavier fabrics in a way that still allowed movement. The silhouettes leaned oversized, but the structure underneath remained visible, giving the pieces a sense of control without feeling restrictive. Leather played a major role, particularly in the croc embossed pieces and sharp outerwear that felt strong and protective. There was a mix of textures throughout, from traditional suiting to softer, fuzzy mohair elements that added depth without softening the overall impact. Belts were used to pull everything together, keeping the looks grounded. The palette stayed within whites, browns, reds, blacks, and deep greens, with subtle hints of cobalt and pattern that added variation without taking away from the overall restraint.

Share